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Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Diamond Clarity - Flawless, VVS2, Or SI1? A Rating Guide

What does Clarity mean?

When you are shopping for a diamond engagement ring, a diamond pendant, diamond earrings, or any piece of diamond jewelry; one important factor is the "Clarity" of the diamonds that you choose. Clarity is one of the 4Cs that are used in setting the price of diamonds. The definition of clarity is "the quality or state of being clear". Having a diamond without anything inside of it is extremely rare, especially in larger diamonds. Because of this rarity factor, as a diamond becomes "cleaner" it also becomes more expensive.

Of all the diamonds that are mined every year, only about 20% are "clean enough" to be used in diamond jewelry with the other 80% of the diamonds being used for industrial purposes. So if you have a diamond with the highest possible clarity grade then it really is one in a million, making it even that much more special!

What makes up the Clarity of a diamond?

The two factors that will determine a diamond's clarity are the things that are on the outside, these are called blemishes, and the stuff on the inside of the diamond, these are called inclusions. A diamond will almost always have some other things that were caught up inside of it as it was growing below the surface of the earth. Because diamonds are on average 3.3 billions years old, they have grown very slowly. As they grew, the diamond encountered other materials in their neighborhood where they were formed. The process of having something "included" inside of a diamond crystal took hundreds, thousands, or millions of years to happen. So when you see inclusions inside of a diamond it is like looking back in time over millions or even billions of years. Diamonds most commonly have other diamonds captured inside of them... that's pretty cool, you get more than one diamond with your purchase!

Common inclusions are as follows-
* Clouds
* Feathers
* Included crystals or minerals
* Cavities
* Cleavage
* Bearding
* Internal graining
* Needles
* Twinning wisps

Blemishes are the things on the outside of the diamond. Most of these are a result of the diamond cutting process and could be removed by a diamond cutter. These are not such serious items and usually don't play a major part in determining the clarity grade of a diamond.

Common blemishes are as follows-
* Polish lines
* External Graining
* Naturals
* Knots
* Scratches
* Nicks
* Pits
* Chips
* Fracture
* Extra facets
* Cavity

The clarity grades are as follows-

FL (Flawless)- No inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10x magnification when observed by an experienced grader.

IF (Internally Flawless)- Has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10x magnification, but will still have some minor blemishes.

VVS1 and VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included)- Contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10x magnification.

VS1 and VS2 (Very Slightly Included)- Contains minute inclusions such as small crystals, clouds or feathers, when observed with effort under 10x magnification.

SI1 and SI2 (Slightly Included)- Contains inclusions (clouds, included crystals, knots, cavities, and feathers) that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10x magnification.

I1, I2, I3 (Included)- Contains inclusions (possibly large feathers or large included crystals) that are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.

It is the combination of the inclusions and the blemishes along with their size, their number, their position, their nature, and their color that will determine a diamond's clarity. There are a lot of variables involved in making a diamond a certain clarity... it is because diamonds are kind of like snowflakes, where each one is different.

A bit of history about the Clarity system.

Currently we have a diamond clarity grading system that everyone understands and has worked well for many years... it wasn't always this way. Years ago, if someone was describing the clarity of a diamond and they said that it was a "clean", a "piqué", or a "loupe clean" diamond, would you know what they meant?

Richard T. Liddicoat of the Gemological Institute of America introduced the current system in 1953 and it was immediately adopted as the universal system to classify the clarity of a diamond. The eleven different clarity grades communicate the clarity quality of a diamond regardless of the geographic location or the language of the consumer.

Along with the definition of these eleven clarity grades, GIA also states that the clarity grading be done by a trained person using a controlled "darkfield" lighting environment, and a 10X magnification corrected for spherical and chromatic aberration. Wow! that sounds pretty technical! however it's relatively easy to understand this system.

How will you be able to know the Clarity of a diamond?

You, a person who is not fully trained in this system, probably might not be able to accurately determine the clarity grade of a diamond. A Gemologist who has been trained as to all the variables involved will be able to determine the clarity grade and they will also be able to show you why a diamond is a certain clarity.

The best way to be assured of the clarity of a diamond will be to have a diamond grading report issued by a credible gemological laboratory. The best reports will be from GIA, AGSL, or GCAL. These nationally known and well respected labs do use a number of graders who must agree on all of the qualities of the diamond before a report is issued.

What is the best Diamond Clarity for me?

The price of diamonds will change, go up or go down, as the clarity moves higher or lower. For diamonds in the most common color, cut, and weight range, as a general rule, look for about a 15 to 20% change in pricing for each change in clarity. A diamond with a clarity grade of FL (Flawless) is no more beautiful than a diamond with a clarity grade of SI1 (Slightly Included 1) but a FL clarity can be more than twice the price of a SI1 diamond.

From the FL to the SI1 clarity grades, any inclusions and/or blemishes are only visible when you look at them using 10X magnification. I don't know of anyone who walks around with a 10X magnifier in their pocket in order to look at people's diamonds... sorry, let me correct that, I don't know of anyone except for jewelers and Gemologists (including myself) that walk around with a 10X magnifier in their pocket.

You will need to see for yourself what these different clarity grades actually look like. I know many people who have looked at the clarity grading chart and see that the VVS2 or VS1 are "in the middle" of the chart so they think it is what they would like to consider when buying a diamond.

There are only a few diamonds that can fit into the nearly impossible FL and IF grades and just a few more diamonds that are able to fit into the extremely tight VVS1 and VVS2 grades... a single tiny, microscopic, pinpoint inclusion will easily move a diamond out of these grades. As you move down into the VS, SI, and I grades it widens out and many move diamonds will fit into these grades. SI1 is more "in the middle" than either VVS2 or VS1.

Find a good Gemologist to teach you or do some research online about diamond clarity grades, it's really not too complicated. When you buy larger diamonds, make sure they come along with a diamond grading report that you trust.

Buy Bud Boland

Diamond Choice

The precision of the cut determines the maximum amount of light that will be reflected through the diamond. When a diamond is cut to good proportions light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the crown or the top of the stone. Put another way, when light shines on a diamond, the light bounces through the diamond and reflects back out the top. The diamond will sparkle, is lively and dancing with spectral color or some use the term "fire". The best cut or Ideal Cut Diamond is not cheap but is worth every extra dollar.

The Cut of the diamond can be also graded into groups: Ideal, Premium, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor.
An Ideal Cut or Excellent cut diamond will give you the maximum brilliance or sparkle. Diamond jewelry with Ideal round cut Diamonds are some of the finest money can buy and wonderful to own.
A Premium cut, also known as Fine, is a diamond that is graded just below the ideal cut. A premium cut diamond is still one of the finest and will give you maximum brilliance or sparkle. A Diamond Pendant with a premium cut round diamond will be beautiful, will sparkle and be a joy to own.
A Very Good cut is a grade just outside the tolerance of an ideal/premium cut and will reflect most of the light that goes into the diamond. In some cases a decision was made to create a larger diamond rather than to cut into the diamond to create the proper proportions that would give an ideal cut. The price of this diamond will be slightly lower than a premium or ideal cut diamond.
When a diamond is graded as Good much of the light will be reflected to give a sparkle. Diamonds cut with a good proportion have been cut to maximize the size of the diamond and not the brilliance. Diamond Jewelry with good diamonds will be offered with great cost savings. If you are looking for a larger diamond and want to stay within a budget this would be a good consideration that will give you size and also quality.
Fair to Poor cut diamonds are below average and will reflect only a small amount of light. These diamonds have been cut to maximize the size with little consideration to quality.

Diamonds are cut in different shapes. Some of the most popular shapes are brilliant, marquise, pear, emerald, oval, heart, square. The shape of the diamond you choice is just that your choice. The only other thing to consider is a round cut diamond will give you the more sparkle as compared to a pear shape.

COLOR grading scale varies from totally colorless which are rare beautiful diamonds to a light fancy. Our online jewelry store, Golddiamondspro offers you some Diamond Rings with colorless graded diamond with the majority of our Diamond Jewelry offered with diamonds graded G-H Color.
Grading
D, E, F - Colorless, exceptional white, highest color grade and a rare diamond
G, H, I, J - Near colorless and exceptional value
K, L, M, N - Slightly tinted giving you good value
M, N - Tinted
O, P,Q - Very light yellow
R, S,T - Light yellow
U, V, W - Yellow
X, Y, Z - Light fancy

CLARITY is graded with the use of a magnification corrected loupe 10x magnification by a trained professional. With this magnification they are able to see characteristics or inclusions that make every diamond quite unique. These inclusions are nature's fingerprints and neither detracts from its beauty nor jeopardizes its durability. It is the number, nature, position, size and color of these inclusions and how easily they are to see that will determine the grade of a diamond. Clarity is graded from flawless to heavily included inclusions.
Pure flawless diamond has no internal faults or inclusions when examined by a professional using 10x magnification loupe.
VvS1 - Very, very Small Inclusions with internal faults that is difficult for a professional to observe but with a minor fault cannot be designated as flawless.
VvS2 - Very, very Small Inclusions with internal faults but minor and cannot be designated as flawless.
VS1, VS2 - Very Small Inclusions in a diamond that is difficult for a professional to find using a magnification loupe. They may fine a few somewhat larger internal characteristics or several very small ones.
SI1, SI2 - Professional Grade using 10 x magnification loupe may, without difficulty, find internal characteristics or inclusions which may only have insignificant single fault.
I1, I2, I3 - Professional Grade I is used for diamonds which a professional observer with a naked eye can see internal flaws and/or have such major faults which reduces the value of the diamond.

CARAT-WEIGHT or size of the diamond is divided into 100 "points" which is One Carat. A diamond of 25 points is described as quarter of a carat or 0.25 carat, 50 points would be .50 carat or ½ carat, and ¾ carat in weight is 0.75 carat. There are five carats in a gram.

Which Diamond Should you buy? Size is one of the most obvious factors in determining the value of a diamond but now you know that two diamonds of equal size can have very different values depending on their quality. The cut, color, and clarity are important factors to consider when looking at the value of diamond jewelry. To purchase the best diamond ring, bracelet, earrings or necklace look for the least amount of color and an ideal cut. This will be the most expensive but beautiful and definitely the finest you can buy. If your funds are limited then buy the finest cut you can. Buy now at GoldDiamondsPro choicing the factors that are the most important to you.

By Elsie Coates

What You Should Know When Buying a Diamond Ring

Diamond information for couples interested in buying a diamond engagement ring. At a point in nearly every man's life, there comes a time when his heart knows it's time to buy a diamond engagement ring for the woman he loves. Only then will you feel comfortable buying a diamond engagement ring. There are many things to consider when learning how to buy a diamond, you should never rush into buying a diamond without first doing a little research as to how the diamonds are priced. Buying a diamond is no different, except most of know us very little about diamonds. Buying a diamond ring is often an emotional - not to mention expensive - experience.

Diamond Ring:
Buying a diamond ring can be a huge investment and you want to get one with the perfect diamond in it, so you may be intimidated if you are a first time buyer. Buying a diamond means investing in a piece for forever. Every individual buying a diamond seeks out the best they can afford. When buying a diamond, consider your budget and where the stone will be worn to help determine the ideal carat size. The Four C's of Buying a Diamond, to determine the best price for your ring, you need to be familiar with the four C's. The four C's of cut, color, clarity, and carat are explained.

Diamond Color
Most diamonds have a slight hint of yellow and the diamond color scale is based on the amount of yellow present in a diamond. It's the absence of color that adds value to the diamond. Diamond color is graded according to the GIA Grading Scale. Grades are based on the amount of yellow that is visible when viewed face down through the pavilion using the GIA Diamond Lite. The color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (yellow tinge).

Diamond Cut
To achieve the maximum reflection of light that causes a diamond to sparkle requires a diamond to have an Ideal/Excellent cut grade. Ideal cut diamonds are graded as such because they fall within the ideal cut grade parameters specified by the diamond grading labs. The better cut grades are likely to display more fire and brilliance and since their appearance is more desirable, they are priced accordingly. The GIA and EGL have only extended ideal/excellent cut grade parameters to round brilliant stones at this time. Determining a diamond's cut grade, however, goes beyond simple measurements of width and depth. Diamond Cut is perhaps the most important of the four C's.

Diamond Clarity
A diamond's clarity is determined by the number, nature, position, size and color of internal characteristics called "inclusions" and surface features called "blemishes". These show themselves as the various characteristics which make up the clarity of a diamond, included crystals, feathers, clouds etc. These characteristics are sometimes not visible to the naked eye and they are what make each diamond unique. This clarity grade becomes more important as the diamond size increases. The clarity scale was developed by the Gemological Institute of America GIA to quantify these imperfections.

Diamond Carat
It is a common misconception that carats refer to the size of a diamond. In reality, a carat is the standard unit of weight by which diamonds are measured. Since a carat is a measure of weight, not size, one diamond of the same carat weight may look bigger than another depending on the cut. A premium cut diamond may actually appear bigger than many diamonds of a higher carat weight.

Diamond Shape
Stones come in different shapes - round, oval, marquise, pear, emerald, heart, princess, and radiant.

Round
A round brilliant is a great choice if you want the most sparkle and the most enduring classic shape round-brilliant diamonds are the only shape to have this ideal proportion defined. Brilliant cut diamonds have facets that are shaped like triangles and kites. Today's round brilliant diamond has a total of fifty-eight facets, but you'll see varying facet numbers in vintage brilliant cut diamonds. Even though Round Brilliant cut diamonds are the most expensive in the market, they make up the overwhelming majority of diamonds found in engagement rings, and are popular as stud earrings and pendants.

Oval
The elongated shape of Oval diamonds gives a very flattering effect to your finger when worn in a ring, and is found in some of the most beautiful diamond engagement rings. Unlike round cut diamonds, oval cut diamonds have an elongated shape, which makes the diamond appear larger in carat weight. Oval cut diamonds are essentially elongated round cut diamonds. Many women with smaller hands or shorter fingers prefer the look of oval cut diamonds and pear shaped diamonds because they truly slenderize and elongate the fingers on the hand.

Marquise
While marquise diamonds are not as popular as round cut diamonds or princess cut diamonds, they are still quite sophisticated and elegant. A marquise cut diamond has a uniquely beautiful shape that is favoured by many women, but a small percentage of brilliance will be sacrificed for the beauty of this uniquely diamond shape. Compared to the round cuts, the marquise diamonds are not as popular these days. In addition, the shape of the marquise diamond almost makes the stone appear larger than it is. The Marquise shape was created for Louis the XIV and is has become a timeless classic.

Pear
The pear shape is a stunningly feminine diamond shape with a rounded end on one side and a tapering point at the other. Due to their elongated shape, pear cut diamonds are known for their slenderizing effect. .The Pear cut allows a range of cutting styles, so that the teardrop shape can be wider, slimmer, or cut to Ideal proportions, based on your choice and preferences. Pear shaped diamonds have a rounded end and a single point. While pear shaped diamonds are not as traditional as round cut diamonds, or as trendy as princess cut diamonds, they are still coveted by many people.

Emerald
The emerald-cut diamond is among the most classic of diamond shapes that is distinguished by beveled corners and step facets, emerald cut diamonds are more transparent than other shapes, resulting in the need for higher standards of clarity. The emerald cut can be one of the least expensive to cut because its shape is most like the natural shape of the rough diamond crystal. Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire dispersion than the other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty and elegance not seen in other cuts. The trim lines of Emerald cut diamonds lend an elegant, sophisticated air to both the simplest of ring designs.

Heart
The heart-shaped diamond is the most romantic of diamond shapes and a symbol of love and affection, the heart cut diamond is an excellent choice for an anniversary or engagement ring. It is a tender gesture to make to someone special. A quality heart-shaped diamond is lovely and distinctive, with an even shape and well-defined outline. They are the ultimate symbol of romance, and more and more people are choosing heart cut diamonds for engagement and anniversary rings. Heart Shaped Diamonds are rarer and more expensive as it takes a large piece of diamond rough to shape cut and polish to something that is the ultimate symbol of love "the heart"

Princess
A modern innovation, the princess shape dazzles and sparkles with its star burst facet pattern, while still leaving the crown of the diamond flat and open. The princess cut is stunning set as a solitaire it is a modern classic of clean, square lines and beautiful sparkle. Its sharp corners are usually contained in a four-pronged or bezel set in wedding rings. You will also find Princess cut diamonds are often channeled into the wedding band itself. Princess Cut Diamonds are for those people who love the sparkle and brilliance associated with round cut diamonds, but prefer the shape of a square. While the round brilliant solitaire seems to be the most popular shape right now for engagement rings, many people are deviating from this trend and going with princess cut diamonds.

Radiant
The radiant cut was first patented in the late 1970's by Henry Grossbard, with its angular shape and brilliant cut facets it makes a scintillating alternative to other cuts such as the Emerald cut. The radiant shaped diamond can be considered a modified brilliant diamond that is closely related to the princess cut diamond because of its square shape. High quality Radiant cut diamonds combine the fire and sparkle of Emerald and Round cuts.

Now you know the different shapes of diamonds that you can purchase and which shape will accentuate individual fingers or provide brilliant sparkle we can now move on to the ring.

There are many different metals used for rings today which can be grouped into two, precious and non -precious, those in the precious group including silver, gold, and platinum, while those in the non-precious group can include brass, copper ad nickel. Most rings today are made of gold or platinum so we will focus our discussion on these two precious metals.

Gold
Gold comes in various colors that can reflect the carat value of the carat of yellow gold with 10k, 14k and 18k being the most popular. Did you know that you can get Rose Gold, white gold and yellow gold and that white gold is more a silver color than white? Until recently white gold was yellow gold with as much of the yellow gold removed as possible, however it was still not a true white color. To give you that white (silver) brilliance the rings are plated with Rhodium or palladium.

Platinum
Platinum became very popular for its natural white (silver) color and durability. Customers that buy white gold rings that have rhodium plating will have to have the ring re-plated every few years if it's worn regularly, as the rhodium wears off. With platinum the color stays the same no mater how often you wear it. Platinum is about twice the price of 14K Gold and can push the price of the setting and diamond out of the range of some customers.

Ring Mounts
There are thousands of different settings available for you to choose from; they come in all shapes and sizes, from solitaires to multi stone rings. Your choice is a personal one; however you should consider when you are going to be wearing your ring. If you plan to wear it daily then pick something with a low profile that protects the diamond and setting from getting damaged if you accidentally catch it against something. This could lead to the diamond coming loose and having to be reset, to forcing the diamond out of the mounting and breaking it.

On the other hand, if you are only going to wear the ring for special occasions then purchase a mount that holds the diamond high so that it's well displayed and allow the light to enter unobstructed from the top and show the scintillating fire and brilliance.

Remember that if you are purchasing a high quality diamond for your ring that having other diamonds around it will detract from your central diamond. If on the other hand you are purchasing a smaller center diamond adding smaller ones around the outside will make the center one look larger.

Engagement sets are also very popular, with couples purchasing the engagement ring and then going back and purchasing the wedding band from the set, for that special day.

By Derek Parnell
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